Oil change & maintenance
Clean oil. Long miles. No guesswork.
Oil and filter changes with the oil type and viscosity your manufacturer calls for, plus the scheduled maintenance in your owner’s manual. We tell you what’s due now and what can wait, and we never add work without asking.
Warning signs
When your engine asks for fresh oil.
Today’s oils last longer than they used to, but not forever. If you notice any of these, it’s time for a service.
Red oil pressure light? That’s not a reminder. It means oil pressure is too low. Pull over when it’s safe, shut the engine off and check the level. Driving on can damage the engine quickly, so call us before going further.
- The oil pressure warning light comes on or flickers
- Your maintenance reminder or windshield sticker says you’re due
- Oil on the dipstick is low, gritty or thick and sludgy
- Ticking or a louder-than-usual engine, especially at startup
- A burning-oil smell or bluish smoke from the exhaust
- Fresh oil spots on the driveway where you park
- You’re topping off oil between changes
What we do
The oil change, and everything on the schedule.
Oil & filter change
Old oil drained, a new filter installed and fresh oil in the type and viscosity your manufacturer specifies, filled to the right level.
Multi-point look-over
Tire pressures set, fluids topped off, and a quick check of wipers, lights, belts, hoses and the battery. Anything worth watching goes on your notes.
Engine & cabin air filters
A clogged engine filter can hurt performance, and a dirty cabin filter leaves the air inside dusty and stale. We show you yours before replacing it.
Fluid services
Coolant, transmission, brake and differential fluids changed at the intervals your manufacturer recommends, with the correct fluid for each.
Spark plugs & belts
Plugs replaced on schedule for smooth starts and steady fuel economy, and drive belts checked for cracks, glazing and wear.
Scheduled maintenance
The 30,000, 60,000 and 90,000-mile services and everything between, built from your owner’s manual rather than a one-size menu.
Oil types at a glance
Which oil does your engine need?
The short answer: whatever your owner’s manual lists. Here’s what the choices on the shelf actually mean.
Conventional
Refined from crude oil. It costs the least and works well in many older, simpler engines that call for it.
Good fit for Older engines, light everyday driving
Synthetic blend
Conventional oil mixed with synthetic base oils for better heat and cold protection than conventional alone, at a modest price bump.
Good fit for Engines that call for it, or a step up from conventional
Full synthetic
Engineered for stability. It resists breaking down under heat, flows fast on cold starts and usually lasts longer between changes.
Good fit for Turbocharged and newer engines, extreme temperatures
High-mileage
Contains seal conditioners and extra additives that can help older engines with minor seepage or oil consumption.
Good fit for Engines past roughly 75,000 miles
0W-20How to read the numbers
“0W” is the cold number
How easily the oil flows on a cold start. The W stands for winter, and a lower number flows faster.
“20” is the hot number
How thick the oil stays once the engine is at operating temperature. A higher number is thicker.
Your viscosity comes from the owner’s manual, and on many vehicles it’s printed right on the oil filler cap. Many newer engines require full synthetic in a specific grade, and that’s exactly what we put in.
Our maintenance process
Specs first, then the wrench.
-
Look up your specs
We check the oil type, capacity and maintenance schedule for your exact year, make, model and mileage.
-
Drain & refill
Old oil out, new filter on, fresh oil in. The drain plug and filter are tightened properly and checked for leaks.
-
Look it over
Tires, fluids, belts, hoses, lights and wipers. If something else is due, we tell you and let you decide.
-
Reset & record
We reset the maintenance reminder, note when your next service is due and hand you an itemized receipt.
Maintenance FAQ
Oil & maintenance, answered.
Not sure what your car is due for? Call with your year, make, model and mileage, and we’ll look it up.
Good to know: keep every maintenance receipt, whether we do the work or you do it yourself. Dated receipts showing the oil and parts used are the simplest proof that your car was maintained on schedule.
How often should I change my oil?
Follow your owner’s manual or your vehicle’s oil-life monitor. Many newer vehicles running synthetic oil go 5,000 to 10,000 miles between changes, while older engines and severe driving (lots of short trips, towing, dusty roads or extreme heat and cold) call for shorter intervals. Not sure what applies to you? We’ll look up the schedule for your vehicle.
Will having maintenance done here void my new-car warranty?
Generally, no. In the U.S., federal law says a manufacturer can’t void your warranty just because routine maintenance was done at an independent shop or by you. Follow the maintenance schedule, use oil and parts that meet the manufacturer’s specifications, and keep your receipts as a record.
Is synthetic oil worth it?
Full synthetic resists breaking down under heat, flows better on cold starts and usually lasts longer between changes. Conventional oil costs less and works well in many older, simpler engines. If your manual calls for synthetic, that’s what your engine needs. If it doesn’t, we’ll help you weigh the cost against how you drive.
What does the maintenance light mean, and can you reset it?
A maintenance or oil-life reminder is a schedule prompt based on mileage or the car’s own oil-life calculation, not a fault. We reset it at every oil service. A red oil pressure light or a check engine light is different: those point to a problem that should be checked.
Do I need an oil change if I don’t drive much?
Usually, yes. Oil breaks down with time as well as miles, and short trips never let the engine get hot enough to burn off moisture. That’s why most manufacturers list a time limit as well as a mileage limit, often six months to a year, whichever comes first.